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Does anyone know the accuracy of the open scan mini 3D scanner?

I wonder if it can be told to Brush it's nozzle during the print to keep it clean?

I like the idea of printers that are treated like cars. You can buy the very basic "stock" car and upgrade it with manufactured designed components that doesn't require us to toss huge chunk of the stock printer. A stock printer could just be similar to what's on the market today. Except, those stock printers are already prepared to accept upgrades. For example. Let's say the stock printer doesn't come with component for bed leveling, but it does have the features on it so we can just attach it later. Right now, how it is, you have to buy or print a completely new extruder assembly just to add bed-leveling to it. That makes the upgrades more expensive because you have to buy. We just need a strong stock model available with ready-upgradeablility already built on to it. Also, US$500 printer may be ok for many in first world countries, but us in the global majority can't easily afford that much at one time. However, a US$200 stock printer will allow us to purchase upgrades as we're able to afford them. I notice that components for 3D printers are getting very expensive these days.

Where can i d/l your wives stl 😂

Do you have a rough idea when they will be bringing out a mk2? I've been thinking about buying one, but I don't want to. Then, later this year, they bring out a better one for a similar price 😅

What a cool Idea

I think I've been using shadow lines instinctively for a while now. I'm having trouble getting in the mindset for countersunk screws, sacrificial bridging and modeled internal structure. Once again, great video. I'm learning stuff I need to learn that isn't always the subject of your video by simple fact that you always include such concepts as part of your design process. Thanks for your great content.

Seems like it's the biggest issue was the replacement fan for the A1.. you didn't seem to be too big a fan of that one KappaRoss

Shout out to Senna shirt

9:46 It's not like you can't scan and 3d print the fan cover then sell it on-line for the next guy who needs only that (without the fan) - there's this guy who started printing mailbox flags for the very same reason - they weren't sold separately - and it ended up not only funding his entire 3d printing hobby, but also made life easier for people who broke that pesky piece of plastic and didn't want to buy a whole new mailbox.

Wenn die Düse abgebrochen ist, sind bestimmt auch Schäden an den Achsen entstanden.

NOTE: in klipper ( unretract_extra_length ) when set up to ( -0.2) an error pops up, so i just made it to 0.8 not sure if it will work

I was always under the impression it was "If it breaks you better be prepared to do the work yourself or you're screwed" I feel like that's appropriate, and it curbs people's expectations of Bambu's Service. They are called the "Apple of 3d Printing" and they don't have a single service center? Apple's entire schtick is if you live in a city, even a small city, there's an Apple store to take your Apple product to and get more Apples put in it or w/e

1:19 that really made me laugh xD

Great video, thanks for making this 👍

amazing video

Would love to have an update on this printer in year 2024. I myself have the M200 Plus (aready 4 years of printing with it) on which I did a couple of small tweaks. Personally I haven't quite like the Z-Suite application because of the parameters that are lacking, for that I'm using PrusaSlicer (I personally prefer that slicer) and I convert gcode to zcodex2 via Zortrax supported "g2z" application to unlock the full control over parameters and to be able to fine-tune everything that Z-Suite is lacking, for example, Support gap top/bottom which is ridiculous that it's not added in Z-Suite advanced mode, that's the sole reason these supports have been a pain in the a$$ to remove, now with that extra control these supports are a charm.

I operate a Bambu farm and I have had zero problems repairing machines. This includes PCBs, belts, tool heads and beds. Some of my machines are at 5000 hours with few issues. If I have bad dreams they are always the same... I walk into the print room and it is full of Creality products.

Fusion360 is free and once you get familiar with the workflow you are good to go. 😄

13:10 жир от рук на филаменте остаётся, перчатки использовать необходимо.

Looks Like your new heatbed cable Sticks Out bit to much

I am looking into/designing away to extrude waste plastics without having to shred the waste or failed prints first, let me Rephrase that, I figured out away I'm Designing the machine, and people will even be able to recycle their dead Vacuum Cleaner, into Filament, will be Open Source, but I am not sure how to get the Funds to develop it or if GoFundme or Kickstarter might work

a Cad that is Open Source downloadable and Private!!!! some sources is either pay and still share with the Company you are designing in (Non-intellectual Rights or no security of them being stolen!) or pay a premium or both or Subscription's!!!! and the Free ones Blast your designs out for any one to look at and or download and at best the company it's self can still look and steal it! a Secured Private Opensource Cad we can feel our designs are safe!!!

Hi thx for this great video! Do you think I could engrave letters in marble using a diamond bit and maybe spray some water?

The Bambu printers are easy to fix, my ender 3 clones and other updated printers I dread fixing something that is wrong with them.

This video has been very informative, and has made me really glad that I bought a Prusa.

@joseguevara184 hace 1 minuto (editado) I "had" and I say HAD because my printer is a Tronxy XY 2 pro printer but..... I have replaced everything on it, is just the frame as a Tronxy. Actually it is a printer with Makerbase Nano Robin 3.1 electronics and TFT screen with E3d v6 extruder and so on. It works fine in CURA even the USB files reading and WIFi to send files, everything is absolutely fine with proximity sensor and glass bed. I have heard a lot about Orca Slicer as the best of the best but I have a little problem that really is a huge problem: the printer does not print!. Starts, home, does all Gcode start routine, the heat for nozzle and bed are at the printing level but nothing happens. Maybe someone to guide me to solve this "little incident"? I like Orca, looks very practical for the simplicity to calibrate the printer , they even considered MKS and the Wifi works perfectly sending the files. Hope I can use it.

WASTE OF MONEY. PRUSA needs to relax and lower the price for the XL as in my opinion the quality of the ALL prusa printers, even the XL is for from good!. If Prusa wants to stay in the market they need to offer BETTER and cheaper printers than Bambu Lab does. Just a matter of time and you will see PRUSA go down if they don't change it! Call me a pessimist! One thing I have to say, I love the design and colors of ANY prusa Printers way better than ANY Bambu Lab printers.! That said, I will not pay prusa this money unless they go way cheaper on the XL.!

Thank you for this! It really annoys me when people rat on bambu with the whole “if it breaks you’re screwed” attitude when pretty much any fix is a few parts away, exactly like their vorons and mk3 etc As usual Very detailed and veryprofessional approach

how can i do it with a 4.2.2?

What is the length of the cutted filament pieces? Tks

Thank you, not as concerned as I was for my P1S

i have an idea for multi-color waste. what about printing lines on the print bed instead of blocks, so that you can feed the lines into the hotend and make a makeshift normal sized string of filiment through special printer settings. that way consumers dont have to buy an expensive spool maker that they might only use once. maybe another nozzle or special feeding system that swaps out with the normal print head?

cool, original space mouse I used had issues with onshape

I'm not sure if the hypothesis here is that Bambu components are proprietary (harder to get) and more highly integrated (more fiddling and unscrewing) than Reprap style parts.... but just compare Bambu to the vastness of the parts catalogue and documentation that Apple provides.... Yeah, thought so... I'm myself planning to keep going the open source route, but this still isn't bad.

I think the really bad part of the p1 and x1 series printers is the carbon rods that have bushings used instead of bearings. They never designed these to be replaced, rods are glued in. Until some customers had major issues, Bambu said they would not even sell the replacement parts. Now they do, but it's very time consuming to replace. No improvements either, so they will just wear out again. Thankfully they went with rails on the A1 series.

Did anyone else think this thing could fit in the palm of your hand until clicking on the video? Me too.

I was so worried when a circuit board in my X1C toolhead burned out, but super happy with Bambu's support in diagnosing the fault and then sending out a replacement board that I could swap out myself. The level of detail in the wiki is awesome!

Find someone with a lathe and turn down the OD of a standard nozzle to remove the bevel. Just leave straight vertical sides. Like a cylinder instead of a cone

I had an issue with brittle PLA breaking in the AMS, I have no idea why but a section of that spool was very brittle. It took me a while to figure out what the issue was but once I did it wasn’t difficult to open up the AMS and fix it. However the printer didn’t tell me what was wrong, it just kept trying to retract the filament, running the motor at high speed (no filament there to provide a load to work against so it was just freely spinning), to the point you could start to smell it, like a hot plasticky oily smell. I assume the printer just thought that it hadn’t retracted enough yet as the filament was still in the internal sensor. I am very surprised the printer can’t figure out that if it has been retracting for a while, there is no filament in the top filament sensor but filament in the internal sensor that it has had a breakage. If left unattended I think it would probably end up burning the motor or melting the gears.

Build a voron!

I was surprised when I looked at spares for the A1-Mini. The prices seemed reasonable and pretty comprehensive range of components. Not needed to replace anything yet but have gathered a few of the more obvious parts to have to hand should a failure occur.

So happy to just view this. Bought a P1S a month ago and haven’t looked back. Informative and helpful as always.

As the head technician at a print farm with 50 X1C printers, I can confirm that they are in fact not hard to fix, as long as you have an infinite amount of spare parts.

If you want a real challenge try and replace a gantry bearing!

I think the consumer 3d printing industry is in an interesting transition between hobbyist/tinkerer and appliance. Bambu is the poster child for the transition. I bought my first printer less than a week ago a P1S from Microcenter after months of research. I bought from a brick in mortar shop in case of issues. When I got the printer home the AMS would not communicate with the printer. Here's where that transition was obvious. The solution on the Wiki: 1)Check the pins on all your cables - No problem 2) Check the back of the printer for bent pins - No problem 3) grab your multimeter and do check these 24(!) resistance values. This where you move back from appliance to tinkerer device. I appreciate that the wiki has this detailed info but, I think if you're trying to open the hobby up to less technical people the process needs work. I was fortunate that a coworker brought in his AMS and I could swap parts. The problem was my 4 pin bus cable & I'm getting a new one from Bambu on Monday. If I didn't have that option I would have boxed the printer back up and exchanged it.

This was extremely light maintenance and change of parts. Nothing heavy. You could have done better to reflect the repairibility.

Yeah just had a brand new P1S with a clicking B motor. Sounded bad. So I had to replace that and it was another one of those needlessly over complicated tasks. Could’ve been made much simpler. Luckily I’m an auto tech so I’m use to longer fiddly jobs. But these things just print so well for the price.

Isn't that DIY work also illegal in Australia?

So Michael you hit it out of the park again. We can always count on your thoroughness. Thank you for the video. It sounds like you recommend the P1P, I have been contemplating buy one of these.